Suit Customization: Crafting Your Signature Look
A bespoke suit is a reflection of your personal style, built piece by piece from the ground up. At VJ’s, you have complete control over the silhouette, construction, and details, ensuring a garment that is truly unique and perfectly fitted.
1. Jacket Style & Silhouette
The choice of cut defines the overall formality and style of your suit.
- Jacket Cut:
- Single-Breasted: The most common and versatile choice, featuring one column of buttons and overlapping fabric. Options include two-button (the modern standard) or three-button (a more traditional look).
- Double-Breasted: A formal and striking cut where the front overlaps significantly, fastened by two parallel columns of buttons. It creates a broader, more authoritative silhouette.
- Vents: The slit(s) at the back of the jacket, affecting drape and mobility:
- Single Vent (Center): The most contemporary style, typically found on American and some Italian jackets.
- Double Vent (Side): The classic, traditional British style. It allows for smoother movement and keeps the back of the jacket draped over the trousers when seated.
- No Vent: The most formal and restrictive option, typically reserved for dinner jackets (tuxedos).
2. Lapels: The Jacket’s Face
The lapel is a powerful visual element that frames the chest and shoulders.
- Lapel Type:
- Notch Lapel: The standard and most versatile choice, recognized by the ‘notch’ where the lapel and collar meet. Suitable for all single-breasted suits.
- Peak Lapel: Distinguished by the points that face upward towards the shoulder. The most formal option for both single- and double-breasted suits; mandatory for tuxedo jackets.
- Shawl Lapel: A continuous, rounded lapel with no break. Reserved exclusively for tuxedo or dinner jackets.
- Lapel Width: We customize the width to your body type and current fashion preference, from a slim, modern cut to a wider, classic profile.
3. Pockets and Details
Small details that showcase the suit’s bespoke nature.
- Jacket Pockets:
- Flap Pockets: The standard, versatile choice.
- Jetted Pockets: Pockets without flaps, creating a cleaner, more formal line (often seen on tuxedos).
- Patch Pockets: Fabric patches sewn directly onto the outside of the jacket. The least formal, typically used on blazers or casual suits.
- Ticket Pocket: A small, additional pocket placed just above the right main hip pocket, offering a touch of British heritage.
- Stitching: Options for decorative stitching along the lapel and pockets, such as a subtle Pic-Stitching (AMF), indicating hand-finishing.
- Sleeve Buttons: We offer ‘Working’ Cuffs (Surgeon’s Cuffs), where the sleeve buttons can actually be undone—a hallmark of bespoke tailoring.
4. Trousers and Waistcoats
Complete the look with customized fit and style on your lower half and waistcoat.
- Trousers:
- Pleats: Choose between flat-front (modern, slim look) or pleated (traditional, generous fit).
- Cuff: Decide on a turn-up/cuff (classic, weighted drape) or a plain hem (clean, contemporary).
- Waistband: Options include belt loops, adjustable side tabs, or braces buttons.
- Waistcoats (Vests): Available in single- or double-breasted styles, with a customizable lapel (V-neck, shawl, or notched) for a three-piece suit.